Xanthan Gum

Xanthan gum is currently one of the most popular natural thickeners/emulsion stabilizers in cosmetic formulations, generally used to provide textural modifications to formulas, enhancing consistency. This is particularly true for any formula that has become too fluid, since the addition of a little xanthan gum can easily turn it into a gel-like structure that provides stability and a more pleasant aesthetic feel. Xanthan gum is normally used in concentrations between 0.1% and 0.5%, since higher concentrations can render an unpleasant tackiness. Very often, it is combined with other thickeners or rheology modifiers, which will further modify the flow of the product, its texture, and sensorial properties, making it easier to apply smoothly.
Xanthan gum, a polysaccharide, meaning a very long chain of sugar molecules produced by glucose or sucrose fermentation with the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris, can function in versatile ways as a thickener. It makes this agent not only usable in cosmetics but also highly valued within the food industry, in which it is labeled as E415 and has received approval from Ecocert due to its natural origin.
This ingredient plays a number of other key roles in addition to thickening in skincare formulation. It acts as an emulsifier, helping water- and oil-based ingredients mix together and stay that way over time. As an adhesive, it helps hold ingredients in place, and can even condition the skin via a softening effect. The capability of forming gels means it is particularly suited to formulations where a light, non-greasy texture is required. Furthermore, xanthan gum helps to control viscosity: it allows formulators to tailor the exact thickness and flow characteristics of a product to maximize efficacy and improve usability.